Friends and Family-san,
Friends and Family,
The hydrofoil is fast (two and one half hours to Korea), but it is so smooth and quiet one can't really feel the speed. One sits in a chair with a seatbelt as if one was traveling on a plane, except instead of turbulence there is a (small) chance of a collision with a whale.
After traveling two weeks in Japan it is tempting to compare Korea with Japan. Tempting, but totally unfair -- so I will do it anyway. One of the first things one perceives about Busan, arriving into its harbor, is that it has a modern skyline and the city is more colorful than Japanese cities -- more blues and greens. On getting off our jet ferry we notice that the city is not kept up as well as Japanese cities. For the first time since departing the USA we notice litter. However, to be fair, the amount of litter, while definitely more than one would see in the USA, is not that much more. As for maintenance, the infrastructure is certainly maintained to American standards. Needless to say, Korean subways and trains are far superior to their American counterparts.
Laura and I certainly stood out here more than in Japan. Westerns were rare sightings in Busan and the locals' knowledge of English matched the average American's knowledge of Korean. Several times, when entering a store or an office we were greeted with a scream from the local shop girl or secretary and then a mad scramble to find someone who could speak English.
One thing we noticed was that that the Koreans, like the Japanese, wear t-shirts with English writing -- commonly American t-shirts. Since many Koreans don't read English, this can lead to problems. We saw one middle-aged, middle-class women wearing a t--shirt that listed the "ten reasons why beer is better than women".
Our guide book warned us that the locals can be unfriendly, even to the point of presenting a physical danger to us. We quickly found out just the opposite. A subway worker who did not speak English walked us a half mile to where we wanted to go despite our efforts to assure him we were OK. Like the Japanese, the Koreans are not looking for and will not accept a tip. We met up with some New Zealanders (whose English is quite good) on Hae-undae beach (gorgeous). They had been here for a few months and they assured us that the natives were as friendly and safe as the Japanese. Only the natives were not Japanese -- a local food vender was selling boiled bugs and the Busanese were buying.
Our hotel was a very nice and modern building, but parts of it had not been maintained. The floor to our room had not been vacuumed for weeks. There was a strange odor in the neighborhood which we later discovered came from a much polluted river two blocks away. There was an open air food market nearby, but I am pretty sure there were more than a couple of items that would have gotten us quite sick.
That evening we rode a subway to the beach where we took a dinner cruise. Only one person from the cruise company spoke English, but they all made us feel very welcome (we knew where to sit because our name tag at the table was the only one using the western alphabet).
My suspicions were true -- the food in Korea is excellent. The view from off shore was great -- large, modern, expensive condominiums hugging the shore. Besides us, almost all the others aboard were Korean high school teachers from a small town outside of Busan. From these teachers we learned an important fact about Korean social life: In order to enjoy a good social rank one has to be good at karaoke. The headmaster was truly amazingly good as a singer. Koreans sing everything from American "oldies but goodies" to Italian opera to Korean songs. Laura and I were invited to sing, but we begged off fearing we would expose our lowly peasant stock origins.
One school teacher who spoke English explained that while Busan was Korea's second largest city (about one and half million residents) it was not doing well economically. Seoul was where it was at. When talking of his two daughters, one could gather how much the Koreans value education and what a competitive game it is getting into the right university. The school teacher invited us to visit his town (about a 45 minute bus ride from Busan) but we had no time. We had a high speed train to catch for Seoul the next day.
Marc
Family and Friends,
The KTX train ride to Seoul was fast -- not quite as fast or comfortable as Shinkansen trains, but surely up to European standards and four times as good (and as fast) as American trains. Seoul's main train station is huge, modern and quite attractive. From there, Seoul's wonderful subway system delivered us to Anan station, where my friend, Wayne, was waiting to show us the way to our (Laura was staying for only one week) new quarters at Korea University.
KU is one of Korea's two best universities (the other being Seoul National University). The campus was very impressive and the students were first rate. I was teaching Business Calculus. While the students in the summer program came from all around the world, my students were mostly KU students. All teaching and other communications were in English.
The students treated me with great respect and friendliness. I must admit, I became spoiled quite fast. When they came to office hours, they usually brought a drink for me. One day they found out I had just had a birthday and the next day they sprung a surprise B-day party for me after class (complete with cards, gifts and sweet potato cake with candles). At the end of the session I received even more gifts. Some of the other professors had similar experiences and I don't think the gifts were given with any expectations with respect to grades, but for me it made grade giving even more unpleasant. For this reason I have decided that if I teach again at KU, perhaps I'll tell my students that I will only accept cash gifts, given anonymously. One thing is for sure; when I get back to UNH I will show off my loot to my students and ask them what they plan to do for me. That should be good for few laughs.
The students were also excellent academically. The students were bright (the top 2% of Korea's university students), worked very hard and were very motivated. They listened carefully, took notes and spent time studying and doing their homework. They were also very grade oriented and very competitive. They were a pleasure to teach.
The University treated us very nicely. Accommodations were great and various tours of Seoul were organized for us on our days off. We were given nice offices, with hordes of very helpful student assistants down the hall. There was another mob of student assistants in our classroom building too -- all eager to help. I also had my own TA (a graduate student in the KU math department) to help with grading. We were treated to talks by important people and given great banquets.
As someone who doesn't speak or read Korean and who has only spent six weeks in Korea, I can only repeat what I have seen and heard here. Besides private conversations and Korean newspapers printed in English, we had two excellent talks. One was by the President of Korea University, Han Sung-Joo (last name is given first), who was recently the Korean Ambassador to Washington. The other was by James Foster, who was a lieutenant to Chris Hill, the American diplomat assigned to the Six Party Talks on de-nuking North Korea.
Some observations:
1.) China and North Korea are not as good friends as most Americans might believe. Both are more given to Machiavellian calculations than to mutual affection. Because of North Korea's isolation, China has an opportunity to make North Korea a puppet state. On the other hand, North Korean dictator, Kim Jong- il, like his dictator father, is a Korean nationalist. James Foster says China would put a bullet in Kim Jong-il's head, if they had a chance to.
2.)North Korea is a failed state that will not remain as it is for long. Because of its nature, it can not gradually open up, as China is doing, without risking domestic insurrection. Basically the future of North Korea is one of three scenarios: A) become a Chinese puppet state. B.) reunite with South Korea. C.) war.
3.) Despite the facts that North Korea has less than half the population of South Korea, an economy only one fortieth the size of South Korea's and that North Korea lacks assess to advanced military weapons like those South Korea gets from the USA, it is still a very, very serious military threat to North Asia and the USA (and this is true even without counting its nuclear weapons). North Korea has enough troops on the DMZ so that it could invade the South without warning. It could also level Seoul in a day from its own territory using rockets and artillery.
4.) Because of Iraq, both in diverted resources and in the American public's fatigue with foreign adventure, we have greatly lessened our ability of being able to seriously influence events on the Korean peninsula (and everyone knows this). Economically, China already has more trade with South Korea than we do, and that trade is growing quickly. Chinese influence is increasing while ours is waning.
5.) A more confident South Korea is becoming more of an independent player in deciding the future the Koreas. We have already transferred a lot of the military command to South Korea.
6.) In the near term, the USA and North Korea will move closer together (the USA seeking influence to defang North Korea's nuclear weapon programs, the North Koreans so as not to be totally dependent on China). Also, South Korea and China will move closer together (both to protect their economic interests in each other and to gain political influence with each other).
7.) The six party talks are useless since all six parties have different interests and goals. China is quite happy with the status quo, where they are able to gain power and influence over North Korea and hold cards the South Koreans and Americans need. The Japanese want back the Japanese citizens North Korea kidnapped. The South Koreans want unification. The Americans want the Korean peninsula to be nuke free. And the Russians want China kept at bay.
8.) The death of Kim Jon-il (he is not in good health) could lead to collapse of the command and control structure of the North Korean army. As a result it is possible that within days of his death, the Chinese, Soviet and South Korean armies could cross the border into North Korea, leading to a likelihood of conflict between these three formidable armies and the remnants of a fourth (North Korean). Even with Kim Jon-il alive, the situation is very fragile -- though not often reported in American newspapers, the North Koreans still attack, kidnap and kill South Koreans across the DMZ.
9.) James Foster believes the situation is bleak and that a catastrophe greater than anything we have seen since WWII is likely and coming soon. The South Koreans are surrealistically more optimistic. They built very expensive train stations heading north at the DMZ that have never been used. They built factories for the North Koreans (run with essentially North Korean slave labor that gives the North Koreans an ability to export to the USA). The South sends food and fuel to the North to keep the North afloat. Many in South Korea pretend that Kim Jon-il is a great leader instead of the psychopathic mass murderer he is. Some in the South pretend North Korea is not the slave state it is, but a socialist paradise. South Korean self-deception is astounding.
Scary stuff.
South Korea, a country of a little less than fifty million people, has the world's twelfth largest economy. While the standard of living is not at European or Japanese levels (per capita gross national product is $24,500) it is quite high and improving. The South Koreans are disappointed that their economy is growing at `"only" 7% annually -- not long ago it was growing much faster. There is also some worry about a bubble in the South Korean stock market.
Historically the South Korean economy has operated between the low wage economy of China and the high tech economy of Japan, specializing in export industries such as ship building and steel. However, as China moves up the food chain, South Korea is feeling itself squeezed. Rather than compete with China over low wages South Korea prefers to compete with Japan. Competing with Japan is like me stepping into the ring with a Japanese sumo wrestler (sure I might win a few rounds but most rounds I would lose). However, the Koreans are smart, well organized and very hard working (until recently they had a six day work week). Some South Korean firms, such as Samsung and LG have been successful competing with Japan in the high tech field. Many believe that within a generation South Korea will have a standard of living comparable to Europe and an economy the size of Britain's.
When in Korea, one notices that it seems that everything is made in Korea -- pretty much all the cars, buses, trains, subways, trucks, kitchen utensils, TV's, computers, cell phones, etc.. Even the food is grown locally. The quality of all this stuff is excellent, but it also shows how much the Koreans restrict imports. This is not a good thing for South Korea or its trading partners. There are things other countries can do better and cheaper, and Korean barriers to its domestic market encourage other countries to restrict Korean exports. American beef is better than Korean beef and would cost half as much if not for tariffs. Rice on the international market costs one fourth what it does in Korea. Despite the loud protests of South Korean farmers and local manufacturers, I believe South Korea will open its markets -- it would be best for everyone.
South Korea's ability to change its economy to remain competitive depends on the quality of its schools and universities -- which are excellent. I expect great things from the South Korean economy.
At the DMZ (demilitarized zone), just south of Panmunjom there is Camp Bonifas that has just recently been turned over to the South Koreans (there are still about 30 American soldiers there). Just north of the DMZ is Kijong-dong (Peace village), a beautiful North Korean village. After many years it was discovered that Kijong-dong is a Potemkin village -- no one lives there and most of the "buildings" consist of only the wall facing the south. The North Koreans try to trick the South Koreans into thinking how nice North Korea is (they are always encouraging South Koreans to defect). All this despite the fact that the North Korean has long been denuded of trees by desperate peasants trying to stay alive.
At Camp Bonifas the South Koreans erected a large flagpole and one can see the South Korean flag from nearby North Korea. In return, North Korea built in Kijong-dong the world highest flagpole (525 feet high), flying a huge North Korean flag. The flag weighs over 600 pounds and can only be put up or taken down in calm weather. The flag is bigger than any building in Kijong-dong. Very impressive.
Our tour guide (an American soldier) told us that Soldier of Fortune magazine a few years ago offered a $1,000,000 award for a piece of this North Korean flag (I could not find this offer on the internet -- I will have to look at some of my old issues of the magazine). No one has claimed the award yet. This got me thinking of a plan to retrieve a part of the flag. I don't have all the details in mind yet, but here is what I have come up with so far:
1.) It would be best to do this operation under the cover of darkness -- at night.
2.) One needs to hire someone very stupid who is willing to take great risks for very little money.
3.) Re-ignite, at least locally, the Korean War so as to provide some cover for this operation.
The rest of my early retirement plan is still a work in progress.
Seoul is where it is at in Korea. It is not only Korea's political capital, but its financial, higher education and media capital too. Counting the entire metropolitan area, Seoul is the second biggest city in the world (Tokyo is first). It is full of markets, parks, hotels, department stores, palaces, government offices and modern, mostly nondescript, tall buildings. Seoul straddles the Han River with both halves connected by many impressive bridges carrying cars, trains, trucks, subways and buses back and forth. Seoul has an absolutely excellent subway system, which keeps traffic jams in the category of bad instead of hopeless (like LA).
As Seoul has grown richer, it has built more parks and become more ecologically conscious. For instance, Cheonggyecheon Stream had become a polluted open sewer by the 1950's. In the 1960's the stream was covered and a large freeway was built on top of it. Most of Seoul forgot there ever was a stream there. Recently the stream was restored to pristine condition with two walkways straddling the stream as it meanders downtown, at a cost of $313,000,000. Han River banks are green areas with a fantastic bike path that travels along the river. Adding to Namsam Park (South Mountain, located in the middle of Seoul), a new and huge park next to the Han River has recently been created called Seoul Forest.
Seoul has many markets -- many specializing in food or clothes or luggage or retail goods, etc. Laura went to Dongdaemun market looking for clothes and got lost in blocks and blocks of stalls selling fabrics and books. I bought extra luggage and socks in Namdeaemun market. And, of course, haggling over the price is supposed to be part of the pleasure of shopping.
Two of the museums I enjoyed were the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art and the impressive National Museum of Korea. Many of the palaces from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) have been or are being restored from the destruction the Japanese visited upon them during their occupation of Korea. After taking a few tours of these palaces, I can assure you that the Joseon kings lived very well indeed!
The Korean language is somewhat unique. It seemly has Hungarian, Turkish, Basque, Mongolian, Finnish and Japanese origins. Historically the yangban (Korean aristocrats) wrote Korean with Chinese characters. In 1443, under King Sajang, a new alphabet, called Han-geul, was invented. Han-geul consists of 24 letters -- 10 vowels and 14 consonants. It is phonetic and is frequently referred to as the most logical alphabet in the world. Many believe that it was Korean women, long denied an education, who invented the new alphabet, but in truth this is not so. North Korea, upon its inception, officially adopted the Han-geul alphabet. Later South Korea followed.
In recent years South Korea has tried to make English a second language -- teaching it in their schools. They have made lots of progress, though it is still easier to find English speakers in Japan than in Korea.
I love Korean food. It is frequently spicy, but it doesn't have to be. It is usually served with many side dishes of various types of kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage) and seaweeds. There are so many side dishes that some of the food is left uneaten. Because of this the South Korean government is attempting to end the tradition of side dishes, but without much success so far.
In the old days, royalty used silver bowls which changed color when poison was present in the food (too bad the Medicis didn't think of this). Today the Koreans prefer stainless steel. They eat out of stainless steel bowls using stainless steel chop sticks and a spoon with a long handle. The preferred drink is usually water served in a stainless steel cup. The cups are stored in a special glass cabinet where they are bathed in ultra violet light to kill germs.
A popular dish is bibimbap, a mixture of vegetables, meat and rice with an egg. Another popular dish is bulgogi which is thin slices of beef in a sweet sauce, grilled at your own table. In the markets we would order jeon -- huge Korean pancakes made from mung beans and eaten with onions and peppers.
Then there are the more exotic Korean foods. While dog is eaten here, we did not recognize any in what we saw or ate. We did see many street vendors with large vats of bondaegii (boiling silkworm bugs -- their larva more precisely). They tasted OK -- for bugs. Koreans also like to chop the legs off of live octopus and eat them while they are still wiggling. Chicken anuses are also enjoyed. Various parts of pigs are grilled and eaten -- including ears, face and snoot. On looking at one of my photographs from a market, Laura noticed what looked like the male genitalia of pigs (not the testicles). We are not sure on this one. I am not sure what would be a stronger for the typical American; the culinary, religious or sexual aversion to putting that in one's mouth.
And then there were great collections of unknown foods usually sold by older Koreans who do not speak English. These were great. Sometimes one would see large pieces of seaweed, some over six feet high, selling for a few hundred dollars. However, in general, food was very inexpensive. Lunch or dinner on campus came to between four and six dollars (there is no tips and taxes are included). Off campus, the food was only slightly more expensive.
The Korean people are bright, attractive, honest and friendly. Korean society, like Japan's is quite civil, lacking the crime rates, graffiti, belligerency and fear that unfortunately is part of life in most American cities. Koreans are known for being hard working -- they work more hours than anyone else in the world! This is a very successful society with a lot positive to be said about it.
One amazing and admirable quality of the Koreans is their ability to adapt to change. In a short time South Korea has gone from a dictatorship to a stable democracy, from a poor country to wealthy one, from a colony of Japan to independence, from the use of older alphabets to Han-geul. It was only in the last few years that the work week went from six days to five. I believe Korean circumstances will continue to change rapidly and that these talented people will continue to thrive.
While the Koreans are known for being the most advanced internet society in the world it is also true that Koreans love high tech gadgetry. The door bell and intercom to my room were both audio and video. Keys are passe -- cards that can be sensed remotely open doors and gain you admissions to libraries and subways. Some doors even recognize you by your credit cards. Some advanced technologies don't seem like improvements over whatever came before. I still have not mastered the `"liquid chalk" KU uses on their blackboards. In some of the men's rooms the handicap stall's door opens and closes automatically. I witnessed one poor guy forced to constantly get up from the toilet seat so as to get the door to close. In both Japan and Korea the rice cookers are pressurized -- they work great. After they are done cooking they start beeping. One might think one can now open the machine to get to the rice, but one would be wrong. The beeping is to warn you to stand back as the rice cooker depressurizes itself of superheated steam. While some of this technology is amusing, much of it is quite clever and useful.
My travel book claims that the South Koreans are somewhat nationalistic. I did not observe any of the grosser aspects of nationalism, but I did notice (no surprise) that Koreans are quite attached to their country. The fact that Korea is divided causes Koreans a great deal of pain. South Korea wants very much to reunite the country (North Korea does too -- but on their own terms). South Koreans care about how foreigners perceive them. Several times a Korean stranger would get up in the subway and offer me or some other foreigner his seat.
One topic where Koreans (North and South) share a sense of being wronged is with Japan. Of course, Japan has colonized, exploited and raided Korea for centuries, but this does not seem to be on the current Japanese agenda. However, it does not help that Japan and Korea dispute ownership of two islands off the coast of Korea that support rich fishing grounds or that Japan denies the WWII accusations of Korean `"comfort women".
Another distinctive aspect of Korea is that Korean dogs have their own sense of fashion. One often sees them dyed green, orange or some other unnatural color. Neither the dog owners nor the dogs seem to find this strange.
The Korean personality is different from that of the Japanese. Koreans would say they are not as repressed or programmed as the Japanese are. The contrast is most stark in the children of the two countries. Japanese children all seem like model children -- obedient, happy and attentive to others. Korean children, no less cute, are more like American kids -- less controlled. I remember shopping in a small grocery store with Wayne and Wenjing, his wife. A little Korean girl of perhaps four or five years in age ran next to me and performed a most delightful dance. She than ran to the next isle, stood behind Wayne and simultaneously brushed against him and screamed. While her mother apologized to Wayne, the girl started piling packages of potato chips in their cart. The mother pleaded with her very cute daughter that they didn't need any more chips, but in the end the mother bought several packages of chips. This is a scene you would not see replayed in Japan. Two different cultures. They even dress differently. I was fortunate to be exposed to both these cultures this summer.
Marc